On the Facebook group Travelling Tasmania, you often see posts from people asking for help with their five day tour, in which they post a crazy list of the places they intend going. Those of us who’ve lived here for a while can’t help but chuckle, or sometimes groan. It takes longer to get round Tassie than you’d think.
Some roads get you from A to B quickly. They’ll push some nice scenery past your windows but there’s not necessarily anything to stop for. Others may look direct on the map but in reality will see you climbing to the heights of a mountain range or winding through dense, remote forest. Some roads are gravel. Here’s a summary of what to expect and where.
Up and down the Midlands Highway
This is the most direct route up and down the middle of Tasmania, connecting Launceston in the north and Hobart in the south. There’s mostly farmland to either side. You’ll go past some small country towns along the way and it’s worth stopping for a coffee or lunch, or just to stretch your legs. Campbell Town has a park with playground, a large block of toilets and a great bookshop, the Book Cellar in the basement of the Foxhunters Return pub. Ross has an elegant, tree-lined main street with lovely shops and cafes, a museum and gift shop, and a historic church at the top of town. Oatlands has a historic mill with the granary, mill and stables open to visitors, and a lake on the east side of town which is a scenic, peaceful stop.
Drive time: 2 hours, 21 minutes, longer for comfort and allowing for roadworks. It takes me three and a half hours.
Launceston to the west coast
Many people head to Strahan (pronounced Strawn) for the historic railway journey and Gordon River cruise. From the north, the easiest route is to head west along the coast to Burnie. Then take the B road that passes through Ridgley and Highclere. This joins the Murchison Highway. You’ll skirt the edge of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. The latter half of the journey is elevated and winding but perfectly driveable, and it’s tarmac all the way. Many people think they’ll need a four wheel drive for this route but it’s not the case. Do it in daylight hours, as you’re heading into the remoter region of Tasmania and there’s bush and forestry either side of you, and occasional wallabies or echidnas on the roads.
Drive time: from Burnie to Strahan is just over 2 hours. I’d allow longer for ease of driving and stops for views.
From Hobart to the west coast it’s a similar story. You’ll head through the Derwent Valley with its small towns, and then on through forestry country. Tasmania has a well-established, sophisticated and sustainable forestry sector – don’t believe everything you read in the newspapers. The second half of the journey takes you through the spectacular Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park with spectacular scenery, and then through the mining town of Queenstown. It’s windy but scenic. Allow time to enjoy. A good halfway stop is Derwent Bridge and the immense timber carved Wall in the Wilderness and its café.
Drive time: 4 hours, 15 minutes, longer allowing for a stop for lunch and views.
To and from the East coast
The roads heading out to the East coast vary considerably.
The most southerly from Hobart out to Orford takes just under an hour and passes through the historic township of Richmond, and farm country. From Orford you can head north up the east coast of the island.
Drive time: 1 hour.
The route from Campbell Town on the Midlands Highway out to Freycinet National Park on the east coast is easy, passing through farmland and forest past Lake Leake. It’s mostly flat and gently meandering. Head north to Apslawn when you get near the coast and you’ll find the Devil’s Corner Cellar Door and a viewing platform with spectacular views out over the coastal plains – plus wine tasting and oysters for lunch.
Drive time: 1 hour, plus another half hour to get onto the Freycinet Peninsula.
Another route from just north of Campbell Town takes the road through Avoca, and is also an easy rural route. Stop in Avoca for a quick peek in the town museum and a go on the exercise park. From there you can head south to Bicheno and Freycinet, or north through the old mining valley of Fingal and over St Mary’s mountain pass. There’s a small selection of cafes in the little town of St Marys.
Drive time: 1 hour, plus fifteen minutes down to the coast.
The Northeast corner
Visitors heading between Launceston and the East coast sometimes think the drive across the island’s northwest corner looks like the most direct. In reality this is a winding, at times elevated route which will take you longer than you anticipate. If you’re game, it takes you through some of Tasmania’s best dairy farming country in Pyengana, where you can stop at the Pyengana Dairy Company’s farm and cheese factory, or the Pub in the Paddock. Just be ready for mountain roads and high country views as well. Passes within striking distance of the mountain biking town of Derby.
Drive time: 2.5 hours.
From Hobart to the South
There are a few visitor destinations to the south of Hobart and they’re well worth a trip, like the Hstings Caves and Thermal Springs, or the Tahune Airwalk. These involve driving south from Hobart through Gourmet Farming country, and then heading west into the forested part of the island. Expect great tracts of the island’s native forest and plantations, some windy roads through them and not many stops on that part of the journey.
Drives times: approximately 1.5 hours.
Along the Northwest coast
The drive west from Launceston along the northwest coast is one of the most scenic in the state. Roads pass by early settled towns and villages like Westbury and Deloraine, then head through lush, rolling farmland on the coastal plains. There’s the Bass Strait on one side, and the dramatic blue rock faces of the Great Western Tiers to the other, with multiple places to visit along the way, most requiring short detours. Aim for Stanley, or go all the way to the west and take the Tarkine Drive through working forest out to the Edge of the World where the Arthur River meets the sea.
Drive time: Launceston to Stanley is 2 hours, 30 minutes, but you need at least three days to do the northwest justice.
Fiona Stocker is the author of two books about the lifestyle and food scene of Tasmania, available from online booksellers and select bookstores and gift shops, and direct from the author at http://www.fionastockerwriter.com/contact.html
Fiona Stocker Writer 